Wild, rugged, windswept, and heart achingly beautiful, the Cornish coast located on England’s south western tip is a magical place.
Highlights of our time in Cornwall:
Taking in the sweeping panoramic vistas, and pretending to be characters from Poldark gazing wistfully and passionately at the sea (Brad was such a sport)
Hiking the coastal paths and countryside lanes
Cream teas! Freshly made warm scones served with jam and Cornish clotted cream
Exploring the beaches, coves and tiny thatched roof villages of the Lizard Coast
Strolling the enchanting St. Ives town and and visiting 13th century pubs
Eating fish & chips with gravy and pies while dangling our feet over the harbor
Delicious breakfasts at our B&B, drinking tea and eating shortbread while listening to the waves crash outside our room
As I mentioned in a previous post, Cornwall is my heart song. As a huge fan of Masterpiece Theatre’s Poldark, the Cornish Coast has been a destination I have been dreaming about for years, the haunting landscapes and English countryside calling to me to explore. This summer we were lucky enough to visit for an entire week, as part of our 6 week travels and I cannot stop day dreaming about this glorious place. If you have not been, and are a fan of the UK, put this on yo’ bucket list. It is one of my favorite places in the world.
As a huge Poldark fan, there were several must sees for me:
Kynance Cove: where they shot Poldark’s beloved ancestral home Nampara
The Lizard Coast and Land’s End: breathtaking panoramic views where the lands meets the sea. Boasts Polpeor a fantastic clifftop cafe
Porthgwarra: a dreamy, golden cove
Porthcurno: a gorgeous beach with sparkling azure waters in Penzance
Cadgwith: a tiny fishing village along the Lizard Coast
The hikes in Cornwall are outstanding and varied – filled with sweeping cliff top vistas, crashing waves, rolling mist, turquoise waters, flower filled meadows and winding country paths.
Cadgwith: We hiked a windy little path to get to this tiny fishing village with its thatched roof cottages and cascading wildflowers. Cadgwith felt like every British novel I have ever loved come to life. We stopped at the local pub, The Cadgwith Cove Inn, and sat by the fireplace for a hearty lunch.
The holiday seaside town of St. Ives, filled with pirate lore and full to bursting with English charm was the perfect home base. We took a train from London to St. Ives, and the view was outstanding. The trip lasted about 5 hours. We then rented a car for two days so we could explore a few must see sights in Cornwall. I suggest booking online for the best offers.
Brad and I had a fabulous time eating seafood take away on the harbor, playing in the kitschy arcade (I am weirdly good at guitar hero, Brad is excellent at skeeball), watching the gulls, nibbling scones and tea and sipping Prosecco at beach cafes while watching the sun emerge from behind the clouds to light the Atlantic glittering turquoise.
Just a man and his pie in St. Ives
Bubbly and beer with a view at our fav beach cafe Porthmeor
Where to Eat
Olives for Cream Tea: An absolute MUST when visiting Cornwall, Olive’s Cream tea is comprised of freshly baked blueberry scones served with jam and Cornish clotted cream. Also served with a steaming pot of Early Grey tea. Note: You are encouraged to pile your jam and cream as high as possible. I feel like I really nailed this tradition.
Sloop Inn: Built in the 1300s, this is a straight up pirate bar and I absolutely adored it. I just KNOW pirates smuggled items here. They also have live music.
Where to eat: There is no end to fabulous places to eat in St. Ives. Our favorites were The Balancing Eel for takeaway fish and chips, gravy and pies. We visited this place at least twice and had a wonderful time dangling our feet over the harbor, eating fish & chips and listening to the gulls hoot and shuffle shiftily around us.
View from The Rum & Crab Shack
The cobbletones streets of downtown St. Ives
We also really enjoyed The Rum Shack, Porthminster Beach Cafe for drinks and churros, and Hub for excellent fried chicken sandwiches perfect for splitting.
The Tinner’s Arms Pub dating back to 1271
Log fire in the Tinner’s Arms
We stayed at Tregony Guesthouse, and this B&B was a dream come true. Before visiting Cornwall I knew exactly the type of place I wanted to stay at – scrumptious breakfasts and huge picture windows with sweeping views of the ocean. An adorable British couple ran the B&B, and made the most delicious made to order breakfasts. When visiting Cornwall, I suggest staying at a B&B if at all possible to heighten the English seaside experience.
I plan to return to Cornwall again and again. Something about this part of the world speaks to me, calls to me from across the oceans to come visit, come explore.
This summer, we were in the incredibly lucky position to have six weeks off for travel (I know). I would probably hate me too if I wasn’t so damn excited!! So, after a ton of deliberation I decided on the following itinerary – a week in each place: Portugal, Southern Spain, Croatia, Scottish Highlands, Cornwall and Rhodes.
Again, I know 🙂 It really was the summer of our lives. I am still glowing about it. Literally, I had the tan of my life! I would say it took a solid six months of planning, which I will write about in another blog post. Anyway, I would like to devote my first summer travel post to Cornwall, because, this place is my heart song. As a huge fan of Masterpiece Theatre’s Poldark, the Cornish Coast has been a destination I have been dreaming about for years, the haunting landscapes and English countryside calling to me to explore.
Fishing Village of Cadgwith – AKA Dickens Novel Come to Life
Wonderful, idyllic Cadgwith
Wild, rugged, windswept, and heart achingly beautiful, the Cornish coast located on England’s south western tip is a magical place. Filled with sweeping cliff top vistas, crashing waves, rolling mist, turquoise waters, flower filled meadows, tiny fishing villages, and to-die-for cream teas, visiting Cornwall felt like being a part of every British novel I have ever loved. The holiday seaside town of St. Ives, filled with pirate lore and full to bursting with English charm was the perfect home base. I would visit every year if I could, and will most likely never get over longing for it. Some places have a way of working themselves into your soul, calling to you through the distances, in your dreams. Cornwall is one of these places.
Coming up in my next post – our one week itinerary.